Layers

Cycling clothing works well in layers. It makes sense to have a series of garments from the skin outwards, so that you can remove and replace garments as you need.

Base layers

A base layer, worn next to the skin, is designed to keep you comfortable. It should absorb the moisture your skin generates when it's working hard, and move it away from your body. This is called 'wicking'. Garments that wick will keep you warmer in cold weather, you will chill easily with moisture on your skin. This layer should be close fitting, and be long enough so that you don't leave any gaps. Synthetic fabrics are much better than cotton, which quickly becomes saturated, and then unpleasant to wear. Because they wick, absorbing moisture from your skin, this layer becomes unsavoury very quickly! For commuting, take this layer off when you arrive at work, or risk your colleagues finding excuses to work in the next room…… luckily, good wicking layers also dry very quickly.

Insulating Layers

These go between base layers and outer layers. Pile them on as you get colder. A few thinner layers makes more sense than one thick layer – it's easier to regulate your temperature, and air will get caught between the layers for added warmth. A summer cycling jersey over a base layer makes an excellent combination for cooler days. As it gets colder, try a thin fleece. Make sure that everything you choose is breathable, and fits under your jacket without constriction. Gilets (jackets with no sleeves) are very popular – they keep your torso warm without restricting your arms. These also tend to be the layers you're seen in, too - you may wish to choose something more casual if you have to arrive places and can't change when you get there.

Outer Layers

This is usually the first dedicated cycling garment you buy, and the one that makes most difference to your cycling comfort. Without a proper jacket, cycling in any season apart from summer can be a trial.

Jackets come in a huge range of prices – all the way from £17.99 to £200 and more. The quality varies with the price, as ever.

There are three different functions that your outer layer must perform. The most basic is that is must be windproof. You cannot be warm unless you have a windproof layer. Next up is water resistance and waterproof ness as discussed in fabrics. It's easy to get confused here – some garments are waterproof, while some are water resistant. Waterproof will keep you dry all day, whereas water resistant ones will only keep you dry for a while – typically 40 minutes to an hour. If you regularly commute short or medium distances, you may find that a cheaper water resistant garment will be just fine.

For more protection, longer journeys, or sensitive constitutions (like mine) go for a fully waterproof jacket, made of Gore-Tex or an equivalent. A waterproof fabric isn't enough by itself, the seams must also be waterproof, as must pockets and zips.

Finally there is breathability. Your cheaper water resistant jacket will keep some rain out for a while, but if you are cycling hard there is a danger that you will get wetter inside the jacket than the rain would have made you. It's important for this moisture to escape, or you will get cold quickly. Gore-Tex is breathable.